Monday, June 18, 2012

Sparkly Sewing I - The Muslin

Is anyone else astonished about the way time is flying this year? Yes, I know I sound like I'm imitating a broken record. It's just that my first term of internship is already over, I'm starting my placement in Internal Medicine tomorrow, I'm turning a year older in only three weeks (a cause for celebration, but still, already??)... And the Summer Sparks Sew-along is half over already, too! With me having done next to nothing!

Well, almost nothing. I finally stopped procrastinating on Saturday, and got to drafting my pattern. It may be slightly silly that I'm drafting my own shirtdress pattern (from my Sorbetto bodice block) including a notched collar, when I've never even sewn a button-up blouse before, or anything with a collar, really. Oh well.

In any case, I decided to do my great-grandma inspired grey polka-dot shirtdress for the Sparkly Sewalong.
After scouring all of the internet for a tutorial on drafting a notched collar (really, can there be next to nothing useful in the whole wide web??), I fell back on a book I bought a little while ago: Make your Own Dress Patterns by Ann Margolis. And really, it did have a section on notched collars! While I didn't understand all of it during the first read-through, it actually worked passably well, I think.
Construction actually provided another problem, until I found this video. And you know what? It provides the possibly easiest way ever to draft and sew a notched collar. Ever!! It also includes instructions for set-in sleeves and a welt pocket. I'll have to have a look at those. Soon. Ish.

So, I set up to sew a muslin. One that is hopefully going to be wearable. And apart from wee fitting issues at the back (I think the collar needs to have an added wedge of fabric, and I may need to add some back neckline darts), and some taking in at the side seams, and the fact that last time I bought interfacing, I must have got my numbers mixed up, because the one I have is very stiff - apart from that, I'm actually quite satisfied. Although in my imagination, the notches of the notched collar sit a bit lower. I have no idea how to accomplish that, though. Ideas?

Maybe I should make up some mini-blouse muslins and play around with that collar construction... Although I'd probably need to test that out in a to-size muslin, too. And afterwards, the next step would be to try and see if I can make the Crepe skirt fit with the bodice part. Oh how exciting!

I'll leave you with my Sunday outfit, taken in front of a beautiful door in Kreuzberg, between a visit to the flea market, having falafel and choir practice. Notice the slightly Marilyn-ish wind-under-skirt effect. ;)

Have a lovely week!

12 comments:

  1. Looks nice! I'm so impressed with your plaid matching on your muslin, too.

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  2. The muslin looks great! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project :)

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  3. You did a great job! For never drafting or sewing a collar.... WOW! I suggest to increase the collar length, maintaining it's neck shape and lowering the the notch point of the front and front facing. I can't wait to see the final dress!

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  4. Wow, that is so awesome that you drafted your collar! I have that book by Margolis, but I have yet to try anything from it. Your sketches look beautiful; I bet the finished dress(es?) will be too.

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  5. You're doing a fantastic job! If it were me, I would just buy a pattern, but that is because I'm lazy and like quick results :)

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  6. Alessa, I'm full of awe that you're drafting that yourself - like Carolyn, I'd go to a pattern I already have for a blouse with the right neckline & adapt that
    I SO love your drawings & also have a yearning for such a dress ...my next dress to cut out will have a notched collar if I remember rightly, but it's a vintage pattern with more of an A line skirt. Can't wait to see yours progress

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  7. wow Alessa, I am impressed with your determination to draft the dress. Looks fab so far, like the notched collar. I am looking forward to seeing the next stage. x

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  8. I'm really impressed by your determination and success with drafting a notched collar. I'm sure you can make the skirt fit your bodice--that what easing is for right?

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  9. I have to say I agree, where has June gone? And you're making good progress! The endless muslins are what intimidates me about drafting something new. It seems like you could draw a longer top collar piece along the roll line you want the neckline to have? Or see if you can find a pattern with a collar similar to the one you want and copy it? I'm sure you'll figure it out. :)

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  10. I'm just in awe! This is going to be such an awesome dress when you're done with it. I have to admit I'd just find a pattern with the collar I liked and franken-pattern the bits into one item. Well done for drafting your own - I'll have to go and check the video out!

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  11. Whoa ... AMBITIOUS project! I love that about you, you just sort of dive in and make it all look fabulous. You make it work, as the saying goes :-). I think that will be one sweet shirtdress when you are through, and thanks for sharing the links! I keep thinking that I want a shirtdress too ... someday ...

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  12. I think it looks great -- and it's gonna be even lovelier that that great full skirt of the Crepe! I think the notch placement is just fine, seems like it emanates from the collarbone :) But it sounds like you got some great advice to tweak it to your liking! I can't wait to see this.

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